Today we are going to go over a new release by Taiwanese brand Havaan Tuvali , which is owned and operated by Eric Yeh. He is a watch enthusiast and actually assembles these watches himself which is quite imressive. His newest release is the Code Zero line of watches which features some cool new technology such as the temperature indicator located at the center portion of the dial. The watch is also very different than many other micro brands because it has its' own unique design and does not look like anything else out there on the current market. The watch is presented in a genuine leather fold over case complete with a 2 year warranty card and a spring bar remover as well as the 3 straps. Lets get into it!
The Code Zero has a very unique and distinct case design comprised of surgical grade 316L stainless steel, as well as the bracelet supplied with the timepiece. In terms of case diameter we are looking at 43MM without the crown which is placed at the 2 O Clock position. The case thickness comes in at 15MM and lug to lug is 52MM. This is a 800M dive watch, Yes Eight Hundred Meters. This is quite impressive for the pricepoint as most brands usually tend to go for 100-300M of water pressure testing. I assume the 15MM thickness of the case has something to do with this. With this larger depth rating comes the addition of a helium escape valve on the side of the case at the 9 O clock position. The case for the most part is done in a very fine brushed finish besides the short lugs which are completely polished. The finishing is certainly on par with the $550 USD price point this watch is selling for, which is nice to see.
Havaan Tuvali spares no expense in their watches and they only use good quality Swiss automatic movements. The 4 hertz ( 28,800 BPH ) movement featured in the Zero series is a Selitta SW 290-1 automatic movement. This movement houses 31 jewels and features 38 hours of true power reserve as I have tested it myself. In terms of accuracy I have been getting +2 seconds a day for the past three days which is really good considering it is not a certified chronometer, but it is indeed running in those specs. I am assuming he regulates the movements before he assembles the watches but I am not 100% sure. Anyway, these Selitta movements are used by many better known brands such as Oris dive watches and even German brands such as Sinn watches which carry a pricepoint of triple this timepiece. The movement features hand winding, hacking, and a date feature which is not present in this model but it is there. I must say the hand winding is buttery smooth.
Now for the most exciting part of this watch, the dial. To start it off we have a double domed AR coated genuine Sapphire crystal which does give off some nice shades of blue when light is present. The dial is black but is a lighter shade of black and not such a deep deep black like a Rolex Submariner. The temperature indicator is located around the center portion of the dial and is in Celsius. If your country does use Farenheit like the USA you should not really have a problem as google solves all of that rather quickly. This is something new to me and I do find the temperature indicator quite fascinating as I can generally get a sense of how hot or cold it is wherever I might be at the given moment. The square box will show blue meaning that is the present temperature. The 8 O Clock position features your sub seconds dial and is super legible. A nice touch is the C3 superluminova on the seconds hand. The main hands are also generously filled with C3 superluminova as is all the markings on the dial including the 60-0. We do get a 60 click rotating uni directional dive bezel which lines up with the chapter ring perfectly so there are no issues there. It has a rather thin coin edge which is polished with a black matte finish insert. The logo and all of the markings are all printed on the dial in white.
The screwed down brushed caseback is rather thick and this is needed for the 800 Meters of water resistance this watch features. There is also a limited edition number for your watch as only 100 watches were produced in each color/strap combination.
Strap - or Straps?
Havaan Tuvali supplies you with Three straps for the Orca model, yes three. The watch comes standard with an oyster style bracelet which has polished center links and brushed outer links. This bracelet is using the pin system rather than screws like the previous Squadron model I reviewed last year. The bracelet does have solid end links which fit snuggly into the 22MM lug opening. Another nice feature is the milled clasp and logo on the clasp which features 4 micro adjustments. The second strap is a silicon strap in black which I have been wearing the watch on because it is indeed super comfortable and suits the watch well. The third strap is something I have never experienced before which is a Marine Nationale type strap which stretches as it conforms to the wrist. To be honest , I am not a huge fan of this strap but the other two are comfortable and of decent quality for this pricepoint.
Furthermore, if you are in the market for a real tropical looking dive watch that is capable of going 800M underneath the water this watch can certainly do that and more, as you can now tell the temperature underwater as well. The overall case construction and finishing is certainly worth the $550 pricepoint and the swiss made Selitta movement is definitely worth it. These movements are tough, reliable, accurate, easy to service, and will last a lifetime with good results. There are a few different dial variations and bezel colors you can choose from this new Code Zero -6 line from HT, I will leave a link below to their website so you can check them out.
The first Rolex watches were not manufactured in-house, but instead were made by other watchmakers and then branded with the Rolex name. However, Wilsdorf had a vision of creating a wristwatch that was both reliable and accurate, and he set out to develop his own movements.
In 1910, Rolex became the first wristwatch to receive the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision, which was a testament to the accuracy of the watch. Over the years, Rolex continued to innovate and develop new technologies and features, such as the first waterproof wristwatch in 1926, the first self-winding mechanism in 1931, and the first wristwatch with a date display in 1945.
Rolex has also been associated with several famous individuals, including explorers, athletes, and celebrities. For example, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay wore Rolex watches when they became the first people to reach the summit of Mount Everest in 1953. Rolex has also been the official timekeeper of several sporting events, including Wimbledon and the Formula 1 Grand Prix.
Today, Rolex is one of the most recognized and respected luxury watch brands in the world, known for its quality, precision, and timeless style.
OMEGA Watches History
In 1894, Omega revolutionized the watch industry with the introduction of the 19-ligne Omega Calibre, which was more accurate and reliable than any other watch movement of the time. This innovation earned Omega numerous awards and accolades, and the brand quickly became known for its precision and quality.
In 1903, Omega was chosen as the official timekeeper for the Gordon Bennett Cup, an international balloon race. This marked the beginning of Omega's long-standing relationship with sports timing and its reputation as a reliable and accurate timekeeper.
In 1932, Omega became the first brand to be awarded the Olympic Cross of Merit for its outstanding contribution to sports timing at the Olympic Games. Since then, Omega has been the official timekeeper for numerous Olympic Games, and its timekeeping technology has continued to evolve and improve.
In the 1950s and 1960s, Omega's watches were worn by famous explorers and adventurers, including Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay during their ascent of Mount Everest in 1953, and Jacques Cousteau during his underwater expeditions.
In the 1960s, Omega introduced the Speedmaster, a chronograph watch that was originally designed for motorsports but became famous as the first watch worn on the moon during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969. The Speedmaster has since become one of Omega's most iconic and sought-after models.
Today, Omega continues to innovate and produce high-quality watches, including the Seamaster, Constellation, and De Ville collections. The brand also continues to be the official timekeeper for numerous sporting events, including the Olympic Games and the America's Cup.
BREITLING Watches History
In 1915, Breitling introduced the first wrist-worn chronograph with a separate pusher to control the start, stop, and reset functions, which made it easier to use than previous models. This innovation helped establish Breitling as a leading maker of chronographs and other precision timepieces.
During the 1930s and 1940s, Breitling continued to innovate with the introduction of the first chronograph with a second independent pusher, which allowed for the recording of multiple elapsed times. The company also developed the Huit Aviation Department, which produced wristwatches for pilots and other aviation professionals.
In the 1950s, Breitling introduced the Navitimer, a wristwatch with a built-in slide rule that allowed pilots to perform complex calculations in-flight. The Navitimer became an instant classic and remains one of Breitling's most popular models to this day.
In the 1960s, Breitling continued to produce innovative timepieces, including the Chrono-Matic, which was the first automatic chronograph movement with a micro-rotor. The company also introduced the Emergency, a wristwatch with a built-in distress beacon that could be activated in case of an emergency.
In the years since, Breitling has continued to produce innovative and high-quality timepieces for a variety of applications, including aviation, diving, and sports. The company has also maintained a strong commitment to precision and accuracy, with many of its watches featuring COSC-certified movements. Today, Breitling is recognized as one of the world's leading luxury watch brands, with a reputation for innovation, quality, and style.
In the early days, Longines primarily produced pocket watches, and quickly gained a reputation for precision and accuracy. By the end of the 19th century, Longines had become one of the leading watchmakers in the world. In 1912, the company introduced the first chronograph wristwatch, which was quickly adopted by the military and aviation communities.
In the 1920s and 1930s, Longines continued to innovate with the introduction of the world's first quartz clock and the first wristwatch with an automatic winding mechanism. During World War II, Longines produced wristwatches for the British Royal Air Force, and continued to produce military watches for several decades afterwards.
In the post-war years, Longines became known for its elegant and sophisticated watches, particularly its "Conquest" line of watches. In the 1950s and 1960s, Longines was a favorite of celebrities and politicians, and its watches were frequently seen on the wrists of Elvis Presley, John F. Kennedy, and other famous figures.
In recent years, Longines has continued to produce high-quality watches that combine traditional Swiss craftsmanship with modern technology. The company is particularly known for its sport watches, including its "HydroConquest" line of diving watches and its "Conquest Classic" line of chronographs.
Today, Longines is owned by the Swatch Group, and remains a leading brand in the luxury watch industry. Its watches are prized for their precision, reliability, and timeless style.
In the early days, Tissot primarily produced pocket watches, and quickly gained a reputation for quality and precision. By the end of the 19th century, Tissot was one of the largest watchmakers in Switzerland, and was exporting its watches to countries around the world.
In the early 20th century, Tissot continued to innovate with the introduction of the first non-magnetic wristwatch, the first dual time-zone watch, and the first watch with a plastic case. During World War II, Tissot produced watches for the Allied forces, and continued to produce military watches for several decades afterwards.
In the post-war years, Tissot became known for its elegant and sophisticated watches, particularly its "Tissot Visodate" line of watches, which featured a date function and a distinctive "T" logo on the dial. In the 1970s, Tissot was one of the first Swiss watch brands to introduce quartz watches, which quickly became popular due to their accuracy and affordability.
In recent years, Tissot has continued to produce high-quality watches that combine traditional Swiss craftsmanship with modern technology. The company is particularly known for its sport watches, including its "T-Touch" line of watches, which feature touch-screen technology and a range of functions such as altimeter, compass, and thermometer.
Today, Tissot is part of the Swatch Group, and remains a leading brand in the watch industry. Its watches are prized for their quality, durability, and stylish design, and are worn by watch enthusiasts and collectors around the world.